I have no idea how many times I’ve been to Hot Springs. It has been a destination for me and my family since I was a teen. We had a boat that we kept on Lake Ouachita, and came into town almost every weekend.
More recently, I have lived only about 45 minutes away and still visit often, not just for the lakes, but for the whole Hot Springs experience.
Hot Springs is one of the most unique towns in Arkansas.
Native peoples were coming to this valley long before European settlers arrived and are said to have called it the Valley of the Vapors. I like to imagine what the area must have looked like when steaming water flowed openly down the wooded hillside.
Then there was the time when Hot Springs became a rowdy haven for gangsters, gamblers and all kinds of colorful characters.
This town has some history, y’all. It has seen a little bit of everything.
Today, Hot Springs is home to a national park, beautiful scenery, fascinating geology, historic bathhouses and some excellent restaurants.
I have heard people say they were underwhelmed by Hot Springs.
I’ll admit, it does not have the enormous views and iconic sights of the national parks out West. It is different. Hot Springs is about geology and history.
It has its own special kind of charm, and I think that the town is definitely worth a weekend getaway.
Here is what I would tell a friend who was visiting Hot Springs for the first time to do.
Now, this isn’t a packed Hot Springs itinerary. This one is more about relaxing and leaving yourself open for those little serendipitous moments that happen when you don’t over-plan.
Come with an open mind and enjoy this historic and unusual town.
Hot Springs Weekend Itinerary
Friday: Check in
When you arrive on Friday, check into your hotel and take a little time to get settled.
For a first-time visitor who wants to experience downtown Hot Springs, I would suggest staying at The Waters Hotel. It is directly across from Bathhouse Row, right in the thick of things, and has a rooftop bar with great views. It is also a Hilton property if you have points you want to use.
For a combination of history and romance, try a stay at Hotel Hale. This small boutique hotel is located inside the former Hale Bathhouse. The best part may be the large soaking tubs in the guest rooms with thermal water piped right in.
We also have a list of some of our other favorite places to stay in and around Hot Springs.
For campers, I would suggest trying to reserve a spot at Gulpha Gorge Campground. It is part of Hot Springs National Park, only a few minutes from downtown, and connects with the park’s mountain trail system. You can actually walk from Gulpha Gorge to the bathhouses – we have done it – but I’m not going to lie…it’s a long (and mostly uphill) hike.
If you can’t get reservations at Gulpha Gorge, see our list of more RV parks near Hot Springs.
Take A Walk Along Bathhouse Row
After checking in and freshening up, take a walk along Bathhouse Row to get your bearings.
There is a wide, magnolia-shaded sidewalk in front of the bathhouses and plenty of shops and restaurants across the street.
Walk toward the Arlington Hotel end of the Row to see the Hot Water Cascade, where steaming thermal water flows down the hillside into a pool below. Be careful if you decide to touch it…the water is HOT!
You can also sample the thermal water from one of the drinking fountains. Bring a cup or heat-safe bottle and give it time to cool before taking a drink, though.
If you still have time before dinner, walk up to the Grand Promenade behind the bathhouses. It is especially pretty in the evening when the buildings begin to light up.
Friday Dinner
For a nice, upscale dinner on your first night in town, I would suggest Vault. It is an atmospheric steakhouse located inside an old bank building.
For something more casual, consider one of the excellent pizza restaurants in Hot Springs. For some reason, this town has a plethora of really good pizza. We like both DeLuca’s and SQZBX. They are very different from one another, but both are truly excellent.
After dinner, you could have a drink at the rooftop bar at The Waters or stop by the Ohio Club to see whether they have live music.
Then get a good night’s sleep. You have a day of bathhouses, thermal waters, and gangsters ahead of you.
Saturday Morning Breakfast
For your first morning in Hot Springs, I suggest getting up early and going to The Pancake Shop. This is a favorite and very popular breakfast spot in town. If you don’t get there before 9:00 a.m. you can anticipate a wait, especially on a Saturday morning.
I know it’s early, but I would suggest arriving by 8:00 a.m.
Saturday Morning: Tour the Fordyce Bathhouse
After breakfast, the Fordyce Bathhouse should be open. This is now the visitor center for Hot Springs National Park but you can also do a self-guided tour of this bathhouse. There are 3 stories and a basement for the public to explore.
Seeing this bathhouse is a must when visiting Hot Springs for the first time. It will really give you a feel for the bathhouses of old.
It quickly becomes clear that many of these treatments were actually prescribed by doctors back in the day. The treatment rooms have equipment that looks both medical and medieval.
You will also see the old women’s and men’s bathing and changing rooms. Someone explain to me why the men’s room was SO much nicer than the women’s.
I would say that most people will want to spend about an hour on this tour.
Saturday: Bathing or Spa Treatments
You really can’t come to Hot Springs without immersing yourself in the thermal waters. There are two places to do this on Bathhouse Row, The Buckstaff Bathhouse and the Quapaw Bathhouse.
The Buckstaff offers an old-fashioned, fully guided treatment that generally takes 1½ to 2 hours. You will be led from one thermal bathing ritual to another during your time here. This also includes a massage.
The Quapaw has more modern treatments like facials, aromatherapy mineral baths, Swedish massages, foot massages, scalp massages, and more.
For either of the bathhouses I would suggest making reservations or appointments in advance.
However, if you just want to soak in the waters, the Quapaw also has public thermal-bathing pools. There are several pools that are different temperatures. They do limit the number of people, but it is first-come first-served and you do not have to make a reservation, although you might have to wait.
So, which do I prefer? I’ve done both experiences, and my preference is the Quapaw. I like the privacy of the treatments at the Quapaw, and I prefer being able to choose my own treatments.
Saturday: Lunch
You will come out of the baths feeling refreshed and rejuvenated and perhaps ready for lunch – even though those portions at The Pancake Shop ARE quite large. Ha!
Lunch at the Ohio Club is a good experience. This is the oldest continuously operating bar in Arkansas.
“How was it continuously operating during Prohibition?” you might ask. Because it became a speakeasy! You can still see reminders inside from this time period.
Another option is to stop by the Superior Bathhouse Brewery. They have all kinds of beers, but even better than that you will be experiencing the only brewery in the U.S. that is inside a national park and the only brewery in the world that brews its beer using natural thermal water.
They also have great food and pretzels. I’ll admit that I don’t drink beer, it just isn’t my thing. But I love the root beer at the Superior Bathhouse Brewery. They also have the best patio in town.
For something lighter, I would suggest Kollective Coffee and Tea. They serve salads as well as vegan and vegetarian-friendly wraps and bowls.
Saturday Afternoon: Dig Into Gangster History
After lunch I always suggest that people learn a little more about the more sordid history of Hot Springs by going to the Gangster Museum of America.
It won’t take a long time and you will leave having learned about the era that brought bootlegging and gambling and gangsters to town. I found it to be both historic and entertaining.
Saturday Afternoon: Rest or Shop
By this point you might be ready to put your feet up at the hotel. If so, feel no guilt. This is meant to be a relaxing itinerary.
But if you are still raring to go, then this would be a good time to do a little shopping.
All Things Arkansas is my favorite spot for a Hot Springs souvenir. Everything in the store is made in Arkansas and is very high quality. They have pottery, gourmet foods, socks, and all kinds of other local goods. I recently got the best candles from there that had quartz crystals in the wax.
The Bathhouse Soapery and Caldarium is another favorite. Emily and I absolutely adore their bath products. Give the Hot Southern Mess scent a smell.
The Savory Pantry has all kinds of gourmet foods including many that are locally made.
Saturday Night Dinner
Any of the restaurants that I’ve already mentioned would also be great dinner options. In addition, you might want to try Rolando’s. They have Latin American food as well as an incredible upstairs patio. Sometimes they even have live music playing.
If you feel like getting out of town and having dinner with a lake view, then Fisherman’s Wharf is a good option on Lake Hamilton.
We have a list with even more Hot Springs restaurant options.
Saturday Evening: After Dinner Drinks and Entertainment
If you are interested in some after dinner entertainment you can go to the bar at the Ohio Club. They sometimes have live music, but you will want to check their schedule.
The Arlington Hotel also often has live music in their famous hotel lobby and bar. I’ve even been once when everyone was dancing, but I can’t guarantee this will be your experience. Still, it is a great old-school lobby.
If you are looking for someplace quieter you should try the rooftop bar at The Waters Hotel. I’d say that the focus here is more on drinks and views than music. It’s a place to have a nice conversation while looking at the hills around Hot Springs.
Sunday Morning Brunch
You got up early Saturday to go to The Pancake Shop so sleep in this morning and head to Best Cafe for brunch. Have the creme brûlée French toast. Trust me.
Sunday: One More Hot Springs Adventure
After breakfast and checking out, you have a couple of options for your final day in Hot Springs.
If the weather is clear, you could drive up Hot Springs Mountain and go to the top of Hot Springs Mountain Tower. There is a fee to ride the elevator to the observation decks, but the views across Hot Springs and the surrounding Ouachita Mountains are beautiful.
However, my top choice would be Garvan Woodland Gardens.
The gardens are located on the shores of Lake Hamilton, just outside the busiest part of town. They are lovely throughout the year, but if you are visiting during the spring, they simply should not be missed.
Give yourself at least two or three hours to wander the paths, cross the bridges and explore the different areas of the garden.
Be sure to stop at Anthony Chapel near the entrance. Inspired by the work of famed Arkansas architect E. Fay Jones, the chapel has soaring wooden arches, walls of glass and that wonderful feeling of bringing the outdoors inside.
It feels as though you are stepping into a magical place – and you are.
There is an admission fee to explore Garvan Woodland Gardens, but Anthony Chapel can be visited separately when it is not closed for a wedding or another private event.
Then it will be time to head home, although I hope you leave feeling as though there is still more of Hot Springs to discover.
That is exactly how it should be. You didn’t see everything, but now you have a reason to come back. And if you do come back we have a list of even more things to do in Hot Springs on your next visit!
